![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj15m9ZmLlCDChA2e2cI2qcHkoA8OImbeaZ-zfzziGwKb1AicKEi1dfWDLWsiSg1dsAbSqdAcWsBYzbU_dnkr-0VhNVItFWQvb1o9mnaf0xGa2e874i5TWTfgloLSWVxRSGoxEvwAiMbyn8/s320/Henrik's+Frame+%231+025.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNXIfW4em4GjPVs8LXpUnBnLDFptbUBOcrFDIxiO9kzSFujgSMeMMHiNn9QPESpIOj353AeWL2zieoZuV_kPi_7w3H8J7shJ3x0cIJVBjIcVqXzBm4fIy_M7sNsctMobr_q7yvvu79y7PD/s320/Henrik's+Frame+%231+023.jpg)
Here you can see the rest of the components of the plate. The long bar goes through the head tube and has two reversible cup for 1 1/8" and 1" head tubes. The blocks it's resting on are set to check for twist and height. I had a 27.2mm stub made and mounted on the angle block for the seat tube. this way if I do an over sized seat tube I just need a larger stub made and can mount them interchangeably.
Finally, for checking the rear spacing, I've got the cool surface gauge I found on Ebay and a dial indicator that a friend rebuilt for me. The block at right has steps for 120, 130, 135, and 140 spacing. All I do is set the indicator at the desired height, check the lower dropout face, and use a caliper to set the final spacing. Works nice.
I also put together some lug mandrels for holding the lugs during carving and grinding. They're basically a piece of tubing with a wedge at the business end attached to a threaded rod that I can tighten on the other end. Took a while to grind the wedge just right, but I used them today and so far, so good.
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